turnleft

Spring / Summer 2009


 
 

Archive for October, 2009

Pop-up shop returns?

Saturday, October 10th, 2009

Here comes another ephemeral concept just when I was about to blog about serious pop-up fatigue. Wish You Were Here Swap is an interesting NY-LON experience: 30 designer shops in Newburgh Quarter (Carnaby Street) and the Lower East Side swap places for a month… London designers visited New York this August and London is now welcoming 12 Lower East Side designers until 31 October – like a good old fashioned high school student exchange. Ok the yellow taxi is a bit corny but I am going this afternoon – I immediately spotted shirtmaker Robert James in the list…

More seriously, are we so over pop-up shops (to paraphrase Johannes, our creative consultant)? Yes, these guerrilla tactics have had their day and the concept has been bastardised by too many brands trying to keep up with youth culture, but there is something resolutely grassroots about the whole idea and we certainly haven’t seen the end of it in London. Part of it is down to economics I guess – finding affordable space was impossible 2 years ago but in the aftermath of a full-blown recession, London high streets feel decimated, not just in the West End but also in Shoreditch and in the posher parts of town (I mentioned how desolate Westbourne Grove feels in a previous blog but I also spotted 2 bailiff notices stuck on windows on Saint John’s Wood High Street). It is estimated that 15 UK retail chains are on the verge of immediate bankruptcy. It is very tempting to take over say Woolworths’ huge empty premises for an experimental project because I can’t see anyone else moving in…

It reminds me of Berlin’s Zwischenmieter movement (a proper translation would be “in-between tenants”): until recently there was no shortage of empty buildings in Berlin and landlords have always been prepared to let out their space for free to desirable trendoids who can boost the cachet of an area. If a small Produzentengalerie sets up shop for free say north of Torstraße, flashing shiny Macs and ic!berlin eyewear at passer-bys, within months the area gets a media company or two, a fashion store, commercial galleries, a restaurant and designer bars. And before you know it the former no man’s land calls itself NoTo (North of Torstraße), the Bavarians move in, Berliner residents feel alienated in the Toca Rouge-Reingold-Birnbaum triangle, and the landlord laughs all the way to the bank… So there is a rationale for keeping rents low for low-key creative outfits (London and Paris landlords take note). In fact many venues in Berlin still operate on such low rents that they don’t even need to sell anything, a few even feel compelled to give things away for free. So I wasn’t surprised last year when Wedding Dress, a fringe fashion and urban arts festival, occupied three entire blocks at the very unfashionable end of Brunnenstraße in Wedding. I was even less surprised to hear that it was organised by the building landlords. And at this stage I need to disclose that the whole Carnaby Street-Newburgh Quarter is not what it used to be – the entire area belongs to the same property developer…

Back to Turnleft – I’m very tempted to coincide Turnleft SS10 guide collections with maybe a pop-up or two in various cities, where guides would be available for free, with exhibitions, social events and fantastic us making the street shiny and happening. If there are landlords out there willing to offer some space, contact us. Oh, and a drink sponsor ;)

London (West End): Wish You Were Here Swap. Newburgh Quarter (Carnaby Street area), W1. 1-31 Oct

Berlin (Mitte): Birnbaum Bergstraße 25 – Reingold Novalisstraße 11 – Toca Rouge Torstraße 195

New York (Lower East Side): Robert James 72 Orchard St, NY 10002

The Art of Fashion

Saturday, October 10th, 2009

Name dropping again – it’s a chronic condition – but Thimo te Duits, curator at the fantastic Boijmans van Beuningen in Rotterdam, once gave me a private tour of the museum joking that its eclectic permanent collection and fast exhibition turnaround made it “the Colette of museums”… And it really is an amazing art space, with a collection that ranges from paintings to design & ceramics – the Netherlands Architecture Institute nearby is equally wonderful (Rotterdam being the European capital of architecture) and check the many galleries across the Westersingel on Witte de Withstraat… more in a separate post. The Art of Fashion opened 2 weeks ago at the Boijmans, it explores the interaction between art and fashion, and I was dead jealous of their beautiful flyer.

Museum Boijmans van Beuningen, 19 Sep-10 Jan, Museumpark 18-20


Turnleft is back in London

Tuesday, October 6th, 2009

The Sartorialist recently posted the image of a homeless person but Scott Schuman had the elegance to apologise for what could be perceived as a lapse in good taste. I almost did exactly the same Boulevard Haussmann in Paris last week when the scruffiest beggar  flashed his private parts to relieve himself on a parked car. He was wearing a “I Love Paris” jumper… I won’t elaborate on his sartorial style but I couldn’t help thinking about the sad irony of such an attire for someone whose life has been hijacked by the French system and by Paris’ outrageously high cost of living. He should have been the last one to wear a jumper made for American rich kids doing bogus art degrees in the Marais. Stockholm Syndrome?

This is a bitchy way to announce that Turnleft is back to London after a lengthy Parisian exile. This is great news because most of the team is here – we’re already working on new ideas for aw09-10, including a collection of downloadable architecture tours of our favourite cities. If I keep a soft spot for my French hometown, many things won’t be missed: among them €12 drinks in nightclubs that turn down half of your friends because they need to keep a gender balance (La Fleche d’Or being the worst offender) and mi-cuit de thon aux graines de sesame in every new restaurant… But the great thing about Paris is that anyone can dip in and out of it safe in the knowledge that things will never change: same faces on tv, same faces at parties and still the same debate on Paris v banlieues [more on this topic soon]. In contrast London already feels like the schizo mix of same old and frenetic change. The recession hasn’t helped – every second shopfront on Westbourne Grove seems empty (not that I particularly like them) – but the party continues and a few months away are enough to make me feel alienated. I will do my best to catch up!

A message from the Center for Responsible Hydration…

Monday, October 5th, 2009

I still don’t know what to make of Coca Cola’s claim that VitaminWater is bottled at its center for responsible hydration but the guys know how to turn spring water with added vitamin and pantone colouring into a fashion accessory. VitaminWater was launched in Brussels last week and the campaign included a 10-day pop-up shop Rue Antoine Dansaert (where else? incidentally in lieu of the street’s best design shop) and various events aimed at associating the brand with famous belgians – or that’s what the model-slash-barman behind the counter told us when we returned for more free bottles. Yes a high-ranking member of Turnleft indulged in a few plastic bottles but guiltily, wondering where it all started (probably when a Hollywood celeb decided to rinse her hair with Evian) and what will come next to keep us away from tap water…

bru-vitaminwater

Thankfully a few days later in London I found out that designer David Harber had just installed a public fountain in Hyde Park – courtesy of Thames Water – with the aim of sinking this unsustainable fad.

Wallpaper*

Sunday, October 4th, 2009

I was reading the October edition of Wallpaper* magazine on the Eurostar and it crossed my mind that the magazine was slowly reviving its vintage 1990s spirit, when it was daring and sexy (even raunchy). The peelable cover was a great idea and I was suddenly excited at the idea of browsing through the pages and actually reading articles. I had a similar epiphany last July when I got hold of the Sex & Art issue. It will sound sycophantic but Karl Lagerfeld is a true genius – next to my copy of Wallpaper* was Intelligent Life (The Economist’s monthly title) with an in-depth article on the end of polymaths. What a coincidence because Mr Lagerfeld strikes me as the godfather of them all… the extent of his knowledge is staggering – not only fashion but also art, design and architecture – and I wish I could deliver his witty one-liners in at least one language (his acid tongue spans quite a few languages). I was amazed by his talent for photography and his male nudes were quite a noticeable departure for a magazine as ice-cold as Wallpaper*. Magazines have changed so much over the past few years – I remember reading an interview by the founders of Butt Magazine and how they explained that they couldn’t even find a retailer. It’s nice to see a new sense of aesthetics permeating the glossy press. More please!

This is a picture of the Turnleft office – as you can see we’re used to turning right!